Collagen creams of limited use, supplements no magic pill, says Mumbai dermatologist

Collagen creams and supplements have become very popular. Many people wonder whether they actually work or are just a marketing trend. Dr Praveen Banodkar, consultant dermatologist at Saifee Hospital in Mumbai, has explained the matter.

According to Dr Banodkar, collagen is one of the most abundant proteins in the skin. It works like a sponge. It helps the skin retain moisture, giving it firmness, tightness and elasticity. As a person ages, the collagen in the body declines, which is why fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear on the skin.

Many supplements and creams containing collagen are now available in the market. The doctor has clarified how much of their appeal is marketing and how much has a scientific basis.

First, the creams. Dr Banodkar says the biggest problem with collagen applied on the skin is that its molecules are very large, so they cannot enter the skin. This means that even if a cream is applied on the surface, the collagen in it will not necessarily reach inside. He said some companies have developed methods, using new technology, to deliver the ingredients of a product into the skin, but not all products use such technology.

Dr Banodkar says a collagen cream being described as OTC, that is, a product available without a doctor's prescription, does not mean it will be effective. He said the benefits of such creams should not be taken to mean that collagen in the deeper layers of the skin is actually replenished. He said ingredients such as retinoids and vitamin C have stronger scientific backing for boosting collagen production.

The doctor says oral collagen supplements are different in nature. Most of these contain hydrolysed collagen or collagen peptides. During digestion they are broken down into smaller peptides.

However, Dr Banodkar clarified that it must be remembered that collagen supplements are not magic pills. They cannot stop the ageing process, nor can they fully reverse its effects. They also cannot extend the lifespan of cells.

On the other hand, he says, collagen is not just a name used for marketing. These ingredients, linked to peptides and proteins, can be useful for the skin. They may help improve the softness of the skin and make the results of skin treatments better.

Finally, Dr Banodkar is of the view that rather than trusting a product merely because it says "collagen" on the label, it is necessary to understand what its ingredients are, how they work and what scientific basis lies behind them. He advises consulting a dermatologist and also laying emphasis on proper skin care.